Gucci重新开放创意中心、韩国奢侈品市场逐渐回暖、依视路陆逊梯卡设立1亿欧元员工基金等5条双语资讯 | iziRetail

我们有“iziRetail逸芮”、“iziRetail热点”两个公众号，内容有差异，欢迎长按文末二维码关注。本文原创，如需转载，敬请联络。

iziRetail逸芮搜罗并精选了5篇关于时尚零售、商业地产相关的英文报道，进行翻译、转载，为大家带来一手的海外资讯。同时，我们把英文原文附在文末，英文爱好者们也可浏览阅读。

Gucci’s ArtLab to reopen on April 20 ahead of end of lockdown

Gucci重启ArtLab艺术实验室

来源：WWD

4月20日，Gucci旗下位于佛罗伦萨的Artlab创意中心重新开放，恢复皮具和鞋履的原型样品制作。开放后，Artlab将工作人员的数量控制在此前的10%，约100人。

尽管根据意大利政府颁布的禁令，将于5月3日起逐步恢复经济计划，但这次Gucci Artlab的复工是得到了政府的批准，并与工会就保护员工健康及生产安全措施等达成协议。

品牌总裁兼CEO  Marco Bizzarri表示，品牌一直优先考虑公司员工的健康、安全问题，经过仔细的考虑，并确保在最高水平的安全和防疫措施的情况下重新恢复生产工作。此次恢复也将为更广泛的重新开放工厂、恢复意大利供应链奠定基础。

Gucci制定了一系列安全措施，保障员工的健康安全，包括：

• 及时全面地消毒，并为员工准备防护用品，有口罩、手套、护目镜等；

• 制定轮班制度，避免人员聚集；

• 工作及用餐时保持必要的距离，餐厅也会每天进行消毒；

• 鼓励员工自驾上下班，并为没有自己交通工具的员工提供车辆等。

Gucci与2018年4月创立Artlab，这也是品牌首个皮具及鞋履工艺园区，也是Gucci当时最大的工业投资。该工艺实验室位于佛罗伦萨郊外的Scandicci，面积达40万平方英尺（约合3.7万平方米）。

Artlab整合了生产链的不同阶段，包括为皮具、男女士鞋履制作原型、研究和开发新品、测试材料的耐久性等。

Gucci在疫情期间也利用其自有供应链，为意大利托斯卡纳地区的医护人员捐赠了110万个口罩和5.5万件防护服。除了品牌CEO个人捐赠的10万欧元外，品牌也捐赠了200万欧元用于支持防疫工作，并组织公司19,000名员工及全球社群发起名为“We Are All in ThisTogether”的筹款活动。

Gucci’s agreement with trade unions revealed on Saturdayis a first sign of a restart of fashion’s production pipeline that does notinvolve protective masks or medical overalls. On April 20, the Florence-basedcompany will reopen its leather goods and shoes prototype industrial complexcalled ArtLab.

“Since the beginning of this emergency, before it wasofficially defined as a pandemic, we have put people’s safety and well-being atthe center of all the decisions we have taken,” said president and chiefexecutive officer Marco Bizzarri.

“Our health — the health of us all in the Gucci community— was, is, and will remain Gucci’s absolute priority. After very carefulconsideration, we are now taking the decision to reopen our ArtLab prototypefacility, in agreement with trade union representatives, by guaranteeing thehighest level of safety and precautions defined with the help of leadingscientists. This will allow us to lay the foundations for a wider reopening ofour production capabilities and of the Made in Italy supply chain, whenpossible.”

The prototyping activities will involve a limited numberof the employees at the ArtLab, around 10 percent of the total 1,000.

Gucci detailed the additional preventative measures beingtaken to reinforce the government regulations for fighting the spread of theCOVID-19 virus, which include, before work resumes:

Complete sanitization of all spaces, followed byspecific surface swab tests to ensure the good results.

Remote preventive training and informative sessions,through mail and company social channels, on the measures to take whenreturning to the workplace.

Commuting to the workplace. All employees are encouragedto commute to the workplace using their own vehicles, also avoiding carpooling.For this very first phase, employees who do not own their own means oftransportations will have an individual company car at their disposal.

Shifts. A staggered schedule of shifts created for theprototype department will ensure that large groups do not gather during workinghours nor upon the employees’ arrival.

During work, Gucci will take employees’ upon arrival andalso will enforce the following:

Information and training for staff on hygiene rules, onthe correct use of common areas and on everything required to operate inmaximum safety within the company premises.

Anticontagion kits. Upon arrival, each employee willreceive an anticontagion kit containing three face masks, two pairs of glovesand one pair of safety goggles.

Sanitizing kits. Each employee will be equipped withsanitize kits to maintain the cleanliness of workstations and machinery, whichwill still be repeated on a daily basis.

Layout. Workstations used by the staff who are returningto work on prototypes are arranged so that workers maintain the distancesrequired by the regulations in force.

Cafeteria, changing rooms and break areas will ensurethe necessary social distancing is maintained at all times and will besanitized daily.

Gucci inaugurated ArtLab, its first leather goods and shoeindustrial complex, in April 2018. Based in Scandicci, outside Florence, itcovers almost 400,000 square feet. Bizzarri at the time said the complex was“the biggest industrial investment in the history of Gucci.”

ArtLab integrates all the different phases of thepipeline, ranging from the making of prototypes for all leather goods and men’sand women’s shoes; research and development, or the testing of the durabilityof materials, for example.

Gucci has worked with its supply chain to donate 1.1million surgical masks and 55,000 medical gowns to health-care professionals inthe Tuscany area in Italy.

In addition to Bizzarri’s own personal donation of 100,000euros, Gucci has donated 2 million euros to fight the COVID-19 pandemic and hasreached out to its global community with crowdfunding campaigns with the claim“We Are All in This Together,” also launched internally to the company’s morethan 19,000 employees globally.

South Korea’s luxury market recovers steadily

韩国奢侈品市场逐步回暖

来源：Cpp-Luxury

新冠疫情在韩国也得到了控制，目前酒吧、餐厅、健身房、商场等公共场所已经开放运营，并要求入场消费者保持安全距离、佩戴口罩。

韩国避免了疫情对生产、制造业的干扰，奢侈品零售也开始逐渐回暖。但是入境游游客减少、国际需求的急剧下滑、贸易中断等外部因素严重影响了免税销售和出口，同比去年，仅4月1日至10日期间就下滑了18.6%。

与此同时，由于自我检疫措施和消费者信心下降影响了部分中小企业。根据麦肯锡在4月3日至6日的调查数据显示，韩国消费者对消费的态度日益谨慎，有89%的消费者表示，新冠疫情对其个人财务状况造成的影响会持续2个月以上。

今年2月，韩国本土主要的奢侈百货，包括乐天、新世界（三星集团旗下）、环球免税店、现代等，尽管整体的销售下滑，但奢侈品销售却逆势增长2.4%-17%。

3月，由于人与人之间需要保持严格的安全距离，百货内奢侈品销售成双位数下滑趋势，但在4月的第一个星期有所回升。乐天百货的海外奢侈品牌销售额上涨5.4%，海外珠宝腕表品牌销售额大涨27.4%。

韩国千禧一代正逐渐成为奢侈品消费的主力客群，在2017年至2019年期间，奢侈品购买量增长了7倍。在其他地区在疫情期间遭受重创的时候，韩国奢侈品市场的快速反弹也意味着，品牌应该持续关注亚太市场，以进一步了解消费者未来的消费趋势及行为。

根据欧睿国际的数据显示，韩国个人奢侈品市场2019年的市场估值为127亿美元，尽管相比中国、美国等主力市场较小，但其在亚太市场仍具有很强的影响力。

2020莱坊财富报告显示，韩国目前有5,847人身价超过3,000万美元。麦肯锡认为，这些高净值人士在疫情期间的财务能力并未受严重影响，也没有关店、出行等限制，由此推动了奢侈品销售。然而更大的推动力仍来自于千禧一代，他们将原本计划用于假期、旅游的支出购买了奢侈品。

此外，恢复营业之后线上渠道销售额也在上升，这也是百货和零售商关注的热点之一，一些品牌为了挽回损失也不得不投资线上业务。除了拓展线上业务的种类，一些主要百货业开始通过多个平台进行直播。

South Korea’s response to the Covid-19 outbreak isregarded as a model for success. The country has never enforced a completelockdown, instead encouraging people to voluntarily stay home, work remotelyand avoid crowded places.

Bars, clubs, restaurants, gyms, department stores andmalls have remained open, under the condition that they ensure a safe distancebetween customers and enforce wearing masks.

South Korea has avoided major disruption to production andmanufacturing and some segments of luxury retail in the country are seeingsales rebound. But external factors like a decline in inbound tourism, a sharpreduction in international demand and trade disruptions also wreaked havoc onduty-free sales and exports, which declined 18.6 per cent between 1 and 10April, compared to last year.

At the same time, self-quarantine measures and a decliningconsumer sentiment impacted small businesses. According to a McKinsey surveyconducted between 3 and 6 April, South Korean consumers are increasinglycautious about spending, with 89 per cent of respondents expecting the impactof Covid-19 on their finances to last more than two months. The country isexpected to narrowly avoid recession.

In February, the country’s most important luxury departmentstores, including Lotte, Galleria, Shinsegae (Samsung Group owned) and Hyundai,registered an increase in luxury sales between 2.4 and 17 per cent even asoverall sales fell.

In March, when social distancing measures becamewidespread, luxury sales for department stores dipped in the double digits, butsales rebounded in the first week of April. Overseas luxury brand sales were up5.4 per cent and overseas watch and jewellery brand sales were up 27.4 per centat Lotte.

South Korea’s millennials have emerged as a leading classof luxury consumers, with luxury goods purchases increasing by seven timesbetween 2017 and 2019. As other regions continue to struggle under the currentCovid-19 emergency, the country could emerge as a fast-rebounding market forluxury sales and one brands should keep their eyes on to understand futureconsumer trends and behaviour in the Asia-Pacific region.

Valued at $12.7 billion by Euromonitor International in2019, the South Korean personal luxury market remains smaller compared toleaders like China and the US, but its influence on other Asia-Pacific marketsis strong.

According to the Knight Frank Wealth Report 2020, SouthKorea currently has 5,847 individuals who are worth more than $30 million. Thecountry usually scores among the top 20 countries for ultra-high net worthindividuals.

McKinsey’s Kim sees these multi-millionaires playing apart in driving spending on luxury under Covid-19, as their financialcapabilities haven’t been drastically affected and, unlike in other countries,their ability to shop hasn’t been hindered by forced retail closures. However,there is a bigger driver in millennial consumers who are redirecting holidayand travelling spending and refunds into luxury purchases.

Even as department stores and retailers have been allowedto remain open, online sales are on the rise and companies are renewing focuson digital strategy. Brands looking to recoup lost sales will have to invest inonline practices.

Beyond from expanding their assortment online, major departmentstores are hosting live streaming sessions on multiple online platforms.

EssilorLuxottica launches 100 million euro employee fund

EssilorLuxottica设立1亿欧元员工基金

来源：Cpp-Luxury

全球最大的眼镜制造商EssilorLuxottica于周一宣布，由于疫情影响，董事会决定暂不向原定于6月25日召开的年度股东大会提交任何股息分配。如果公司业务得到稳定复苏，将考虑在2020年底派发特别股息。

同时，EssilorLuxottica也宣布了进一步应对疫情的措施，包括减少或延迟支付部分管理人员的薪资，以减少运营开支及现金支出。公司董事会已投票决定降薪50%。

公司表示，将在今年下半年进一步评估公司的业务状况，以及应对疫情所采取措施的有效性。此外，董事会还批准设立1亿欧元的基金，用于帮助受疫情影响的员工。

EssilorLuxottica总部位于巴黎，2018年10月由法国依视路Essilor和意大利Luxottica合并成立。

Eyewear and optical giant EssilorLuxottica SA announcedMonday that its Board of Directors has decided not to submit any dividenddistribution to the Annual Shareholders’ Meeting of June 25 due to the COVID-19outbreak.

If the recovery is solid enough, the Board may propose aspecial dividend payment before the end of 2020.

The company announced further measures to respond to theCOVID-19 pandemic, aimed at reducing operating and cash expenses, including thereduction or deferral of parts of its managers’ compensations. The Board votedto apply the latter measure to its own members by reducing their attendancefees by 50%.

The company said it will further assess the state of thebusiness in the second half of the year and the efficacy of all the measuresundertaken to face the outbreak.

Further, the Board approved the launch of a 100 millioneuros COVID-19 fund to protect its human capital. This fund will supportemployees and their families in need..

EssilorLuxottica SA is a French-Italian verticallyintegrated multinational corporation based in Paris and founded on 1 October2018 from the incorporation of the Italian Luxottica by the French Essilor.

Taiwan’s Eslite relocates its 24-hour outlet

台湾诚品敦南店计划停业，24小时书店将重新选址

来源：Retail in Asia

台湾地标性建筑诚品书店宣布将关闭位于敦南的门店，这是品牌的首个门店，也是全球第一家24小时营业的门店。4月18日，品牌表示，或从位于信义和南溪的门店中选择其一作为新的“24小时”门店。

该结果源于品牌在4月10日发起的线上活动，邀请粉丝预测位于台北的5家门店中，哪个将成为新的24小时门店。最终位于松高路的信义店和位于南京西路的南溪店成为消费者中呼声最高的两间门店。

公司也表示，尽管南溪店在这次活动中排名第二，但综合所有条件，可能更适合以24小时营业的方式经营。

据悉，由于租约到期，敦南店将在5月31日正式关闭。该店于1989年开业，自1999年起每天24小时营业。门店所在的敦南金融大厦也将被拆除重建。这间地下3层、地上2层的书店，也吸引着国外游客，即使在夜间也是一个旅游观光地。

店内有10万本旧书，从3月26日开始销售，并将截至售卖的日期由4月15日延长至4月30日。继三月关闭了位于台南安平的门店后，品牌计划于四月关闭位于台东的门店。敦南店关闭后，品牌在台湾还剩余42家门店。

诚品书店还在中国香港、苏州、深圳等地开有门店；2019年9月，品牌在东京开设了分店。

Eslite Spectrum Corp., which runs the popular Eslitebookstore chain in Taiwan, said on 18th April, 2020 that it is likely to choosebetween its Xinyi and Nanxi outlet to succeed its Dunnan store as the chain’s24-hour outlet.

In an online campaign launched on 10th April, Esliteinvited its fans to predict which of its stores in Taipei will be open 24 hoursa day after the Dunnan store is shut down at the end of May.

Among the five possible candidates in the campaign, theXinyi store, located on Songgao Road, has garnered the most support from thefans, ahead of the Nanxi store, which is located on Nanjing West Road.

Eslite, which expects to make a decision on 23rd April,has said that while the Nanxi store currently ranks second in the predictioncampaign, it might be a more suitable location to become a 24-hour store whenall conditions are factored in.

The Dunnan store, which will close on 31st May due to theexpiration of its lease, started to remain open 24 hours a day in 1999 afteropening in 1989, making it one of the only bookstores in the world to run for24 hours.

The building in which the bookstore is located will berebuilt under an urban renewal project launched by the Cathay Financial group.

With three levels below ground and two above in the12-story Dunnan Financial Building on Dunhua South Road, the store has been abig draw for many foreign visitors and emerged as a tourism attraction inTaiwan at night.

Meanwhile, the deadline for the sale of 100,000 olderbooks from the store’s stock that began on 26th March has been extended to 30thApril from 15th April.

In other moves, Eslite will close its Taitung store at theend of April after closing its Anping outlet in Tainan in March. Once theDunnan store closes, the company will have 42 stores in Taiwan.

Overseas, Eslite has stores in Taikoo, Causeway Bay andTsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong, Suzhou and Shenzhen in China, and another in Tokyo,which opened in September 2019.

Lululemon apologises for controversial T-shirt design

Lululemon就涉嫌种族歧视发表道歉声明

来源：Retail in Asia

近日，运动服饰品牌Lululemon发表声明，对公司员工涉嫌种族歧视的事件道歉。起因是Lululemon公司员工通过社交网络发布了一款与冠状病毒相关的长袖T恤，名为“蝙蝠炒饭”。其图案的设计带有辱华意味，在网络上引起广泛抗议。

根据微博上的图片显示，这件T恤在正面用红色勾画了一双有着蝙蝠翅膀的筷子图案；背面也是红色的带有蝙蝠翅膀的中式快餐盒子图案，上面还印有“NO THANK YOU”的字样。一些微博用户也因该设计涉嫌“辱华”，强烈呼吁抵制该品牌。

品牌艺术指导Trevor Fleming也通过其Instagram分享、推广这件T恤。据悉，这件充满争议的T恤是由Jess Sluder设计，以60美元的价格在其个人网站上出售。

Lululemon随后在Instagram发布致歉声明，强调尽管这件具有争议的T恤不是品牌的产品，但针对员工参与推广宣传该产品的事件，品牌会严肃处理，并立即采取行动，涉及此事的员工也已经被开除。

Lululemon上海办公室也在微博上发布声明，表示流传的“歧视性服装”不是品牌设计的，并且不参与品牌服饰生产。

Trevor Fleming为分享该设计进行道歉，表示并未参与T恤的创作。T恤设计者Sluder也对此表示抱歉，并表示该T恤与Lululemon、TrevorFleming无关。

Lululemon Athletica, a Canadian apparel brand known forits expensive yoga wear, apologised after an employee posted acoronavirus-related T-shirt design online that sparked a backlash on Chinesesocial media for “insulting” the country.

The company, which is quickly gaining popularity in theChinese market, issued an apology and statement distancing itself from thedesign after images began circulating of a long sleeve T-shirt named “Bat FriedRice”.

Pictures posted to China’s Twitter-like social media platformWeibo showed a design featuring a small image of chopsticks with bat wings inred on the front and a winged Chinese takeaway box with the words “No ThankYou” on the back. There was no mention of China or the coronavirus pandemic onthe T-shirt.

The social media storm appears to have erupted after alink to the design was shared on Instagram by Trevor Fleming, the art directorat the company.

The T-shirt was originally listed for sale on the websiteof artist Jess Sluder, who has no connection with Lululemon, for US$60.

Some Weibo users called for a boycott of the brand, whoseyoga pants sell for more than US$100, because it was “insulting China” with thedesign, despite the Canadian company having no official affiliation.

Lululemon issued an apology on Instagram to hose downcomplaints that it was fanning xenophobia.

“The T-shirt is not a Lululemon product. We apologisethat an employee was affiliated with promoting an offensive T-shirt and we takethis very seriously. The image and the post were inappropriate and inexcusable.We acted immediately, and the person involved is no longer an employee ofLululemon,” the company said.

The company’s Shanghai office also issued a statement onpopular messaging app WeChat in which it said the designer of “thediscriminatory apparel” did not work for the company and it had no involvementin the garment’s production.

Fleming also apologised for sharing the design, saying: “Ideeply apologise for putting the URL in my bio. I did not design the T-shirt,nor did I participate in any part of its creation.”

Sluder, the artist, said he was sorry for beinginsensitive and explained the design was intended “to create light during thesedark times”. He added that the design had nothing to do with Fleming orLululemon, according to NextShark, a website covering Asian-American News.

往期文章：

• 上海恒隆港汇广场B1-L1平面图的Before&After
  
• 欢迎扫描二维码添加iziRetail为微信好友
  （请注明真实姓名和工作单位）